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Trogir A swath of turquoise blue sea meets and squarely placed strip of blinding white concrete lined by a perfectly ordered row of green palm trees, beyond which the bumpy grotto work of red tile roofs is a launching pad from which various thin, pointed spires shoot up, breaking the distant skyline which is otherwise an uninterrupted series of unimposing contours, the tan hills of the coastal Balkans that ease off seamlessly into the Adriatic Sea.
This is the Croatian city of Trogir, whose Old City dates back to the 3rd Century BC and has been named a UNESCO World Heritage site for its wealth of ancient architecture and stunning, intrinsic beauty. It was once a walled city, but rather than destroying existing architecture, it seems that successive invasions and conquests of Trogir only served to embellish its diverse range of architecture, which is historians view as if it were sediment, each new style representing a distinct age of domination. While the Roman Empire left its churches, the long dominion by Venice left behind both Baroque and Renaissance edifices.
The main square is a great starting point from which to make your way outward via the orthogonal street plan, a design which owes its origins to the Hellenistic period. Cipiko Palace is located right on the square. It is named after one of Trogir’s most prominent families of the 15th Century, who lived there. Look for the window designed in the Venetian Gothic style. The Town Loggia, or Clock Tower, is unmistakable and worthy of admiration. Making your way off the square, the Romanesque Church of St. John the Baptist is not just an architectural wonder, but the cool, richly smelling interior houses an impressive collection of historical religious art that brings in experts from miles around. The Cathedral (one of the spires) has all the ornament of dark, Baroque Europe contrasted compellingly with the white, sun-baked Mediterranean coast.
Wending your way outward through Trogir, you will eventually come to the waterside strip called the Riva. It is here you can see remnants of the city wall, hearkening back to the more bellicose times of yore. Along the Riva you will encounter the Small Loggia, which, although humbler than the main square clock tower, is in its own right a must-see. Despite the impressive artifacts throughout the town, the Riva is by far the most pleasant place to wile away an afternoon in Trogir, pacing nonchalantly or sitting back and relaxing, watching the throng of locals and guests take in the exquisite sea breezes.
Finding a place to stay in Trogir is relatively easy, as there are literally thousands of hotel beds in this popular destination. Fortunately, prices here are lower than Greece and Italy, but don’t expect incredible rates. Also, be sure to book your hotel or apartment rentals well in advance if you plan to visit during the peak summer months of July and August. |
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